Glycolic acid Vs. Lactic acid is the never-ending battle of AHAs. In the hunt for the perfect chemical exfoliant, you might feel a bit confused. After all, to master skincare, you must have a minimum of chemistry knowledge and understand how every active works depending on your skin type. So, which one is better? Which one should you use?
One of the most controversial topics is choosing the best chemical exfoliant. They can be our allies when trying to get a brighter complexion and get rid of textures and dullness. They are also perfect for fading hyperpigmentation and stopping the aging process.
But with a wide array of products available in the market and tons of reviews from self-proclaimed skincare gurus, it can be difficult to choose correctly. Words like AHAs, lactic acid, and glycolic acid can sound sophisticated and hard to understand. But do not worry because we will make it simple for you to understand.
First of All, What Are AHAs?
AHAs are alpha hydroxy acids naturally found in plants and fruits. Glycolic acid is derived from sugarcane, lactic acid from sour milk, mandelic acid from bitter almonds, tartaric acid from grapes, and so on. However, AHAs used in skincare and cosmetic products usually are synthetically produced because they are more stable1.
These compounds are useful in skincare because they are chemical exfoliants. They increase skin cell turnover and help break the bonds between the stratum corneum cells. In that way, dead cells in the outer skin layer give way to new cells, revealing a brighter complexion.
By renewing the skin surface and shedding dead cells regularly, you can improve dullness and texture. Also, it can make it easier for other products to be better absorbed into your skin's surface and work their magic. Additionally, AHAs act as humectants, so they can attract water and make your skin look supple and hydrated.
How to apply them? The Acids step of the skincare routine goes right after cleaning your face. You should apply a few drops of acid to clean bare skin.
After waiting a few minutes (20 minutes or so), continue with the rest of your routine. This break allows the product to really "soak in" and prevents the acid from changing other products' pH.
Let's Talk About Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid is a water-soluble AHA derived from sugarcane. It is widely known in the skincare industry for helping with hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and wrinkles. Thanks to its keratolytic properties, it essentially dissolves the "glue" that binds together the cells of the topmost layer of the skin, also called the epidermis.
Even though glycolic acid only reaches the epidermis (BHAs can reach far down to the dermis), its molecules are the smallest of all the acids in the AHA family. This means that it can go deeper and be beneficial in case of oily or acne-prone skin. It can unclog pores and remove oil buildup, resulting in fewer breakouts.
Additionally, glycolic acid impedes the production of melanin within the basal layer of the skin, which is very useful to repair sun damage and prevent or fade hyperpigmentation.
This AHA is also excellent for treating the early signs of the aging process. It has the ability to activate and increase fibroblast cells that produce elastin and collagen. This helps to fade fine lines and wrinkles, improving your skin tone and elasticity.
Why Even Bother with Lactic Acid?
Lactic acid is ideal for people with sensitive skin. This AHA is a bigger molecule, so it's not able to penetrate as deeply. It typically affects the outermost layer of the epidermis, so it may take more time to see results when using lactic acid.
However, it easily does it! After all, you get the same exfoliating benefits as glycolic acid but with less chance of irritation. Also, this AHA is well known for its hydrating properties, so it fights dryness and retains skin moisture more effectively.
This AHA is perfect for beginners and to build up a tolerance to acids slowly. It is recommended to start with low concentrations (5%) once a week and work your way through more frequent applications (3-4 times a week).
Which One Is Better?
Perhaps it would be better to ask: "Which one is better for YOU?" It all comes down to your skin type. Remember that stronger is not always better. Otherwise, you will end up with a disrupted skin barrier and redness all over your face.
Therefore, if you have highly sensitive skin, you will probably react badly to glycolic acid. It would be better for you to opt for a gentler acid like lactic or mandelic.
Indistinctly, your skin will make most of the talking. If you start to notice redness, swelling, itching/burning sensation, or flaking skin, you most probably are exfoliating too frequently or using a strong acid for your skin type.
Also, whether an AHA turns out to be a friend or foe depends on its concentration. It is not the same to use 5% lactic acid as 10%. You should build up a tolerance as the skin gets used to the product.
If you notice that your skin gets a little irritated, you can apply your next product immediately afterward in your skincare routine and up your game when it comes to hydrating products.
You could also use less product or use a weaker type of acid. Either way, make sure to always use sunscreen with UVA and UVB protection afterward. Studies have shown that AHAs can increase your skin's sun sensitivity up to a week after stopping application2.
It's Time to Put Tamarin AHA in The Spotlight
Tamarin AHA is a product with a high content of tartaric acid. This naturally occurring organic acid is found in fermented grapes and tamarinds. It is also one of the main acids in wine. Tartaric acid is an alpha hydroxy acid with important exfoliating, hydrating, and antioxidant properties.
Even though it is not as well-researched as glycolic and lactic acid (the skincare staples of the AHA family), it is one of those often-overlooked ingredients with a lot of benefits, aside from properties shared by all AHAs. It is considered low-risk and safe for use, showing less chance of irritation than other alpha-hydroxy acids.
On top of having skin benefits on its own, tartaric acid helps to stabilize other acids to regulate a formula's pH and minimize the chance of irritation. For that reason, it is often used as a buffering agent in skincare products.
Additionally, tartaric acid is considered a potent antioxidant, with the ability to protect your skin from the harmful effects of free radicals secondary to exposure to sunlight and pollution.
After all, antioxidants are the first line of protection against the aging process. On top of that, tartaric acid also has hydrating properties, making it helpful in treating dry skin conditions.
Interestingly, looking into the future and other potential applications in skincare, in vitro studies have shown that tartaric acid can be broken down into derivatives known as tartramides, which share a similar chemical structure to skin's own ceramides3.
Ceramides can be considered "the glue" that helps hold the skin cells together, forming a protective barrier that locks in moisture and keeps out impurities.
In a lab setting, these so-called tartramides were shown to successfully replace ceramides in a model of the skin's lipid matrix3. However, if this could translate into a definite skincare benefit remains yet to be seen.
Can I Mix Two or Three AHAs?
Many people often wonder whether they can use lactic acid and glycolic acid together in the same routine. The typical answer would be a definite no unless you want to disrupt your skin barrier. However, when you put tartaric acid in the mix, it is possible!
Tartaric acid can actually help to keep your skincare products' pH balanced while enhancing the ability of other alpha-hydroxy acids to exfoliate and slough old skin cells, giving you a fresh, glowing look.
When you combine several different acids in low concentrations into one formulation, they work synergistically. They boost each other's effectiveness, and the tartaric acid makes sure that the pH doesn't reach potentially irritating levels.
So, why should you add tartaric acid to your routine when you already know the other AHAs work for you? It all comes down to concentration. Instead of using glycolic acid at a higher concentration (with the chance of getting your skin irritated), you can go for lower concentrations and obtain the same results.
No wonder tartaric acid is now considered a superstar AHA and popular addition to other acid product formulas!
A Final Word
When it comes to skincare, consistency, and patience are key. However, using the right products can be a little bit challenging, especially chemical exfoliants.
Products that worked for your friends might not work for you. Skincare is not a recipe that fits everybody and requires a deep understanding of your skin needs.
Also, remember that in the constant doubt of "How much is too much? "when exfoliating, tartaric acid is revealing itself as an innovative and powerful skincare ingredient that can be the bridge between different AHAs.
Now you don't have to decide on whether to be Team Glycolic or Team Lactic. With tartaric acid, aka Tamarin AHA, you can get all the exfoliating acids' benefits without fear of irritating your skin!
