As we get older, then comes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. These are formed under the influence of free radicals secondary to exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light, pollution, stress, and poor dieting. Specifically, UV damage is mostly responsible for degrading collagen and hyaluronic acid.
Collagen and hyaluronic acid are organic substances naturally present in our bodies. Each of them has different properties and benefits, but both are skin-related and help maintain a youthful and smooth complexion. They are directly responsible for skin elasticity, tone, plumpness, and hydration levels.
Collagen gives support and structure to the skin, and hyaluronic acid is in charge of plumping and filling in lines and wrinkles. Both ingredients are pretty good and much needed for your skin. So, to put the cherry on top, keep on reading to also learn about an ingredient that could very well be the 2.0 version of them both.
Hyaluronic acid is one of those basic skincare ingredients that will never go out of style. And these days, it seems to be everywhere we look, from cleansers, serums, moisturizers, and even pills. It is the go-to skincare ingredient when it comes to hydration.
Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring sugar present in our bodies, from our skin, the vitreous humor of the human eye, connective tissue, blood vessels, and joints. It has been estimated that a 70 kg person holds nearly 15 g of hyaluronic acid in the body. And more than 50% of it is contained in the skin1.
This molecule acts as a powerful sponge or water magnet. It is responsible for the smoothness of the skin due to its ability to bind 1000 to 4000 times its own weight in water. So, when fine lines appear due to dehydration, hyaluronic acid acts as a volumizer thanks to its space-filling capacity. Bye-bye wrinkles, hello bouncy skin!
Moreover, it has been determined that hyaluronic acid plays an important role during tissue injury and wound healing, which makes it more useful than just "erasing wrinkles." Also, it is an essential component of the synovial fluid, acting as a lubricant and a shock-absorbing "cushion" to facilitate mobility of the joints during exercise or normal activity1.
As you can see, this ingredient is a true multitasker, and its benefits go well beyond skincare applications. After all, hyaluronic acid is a synonym for water, and where there is water, there is life. So, its importance and multifunctioning are perfectly understandable.
Hyaluronic acid is a very gentle ingredient that suits every skin type, not creating conflict with other skincare actives or irritation. After all, it is a molecule normally synthesized by our body.
However, don't expect to just spread your favorite hyaluronic acid-based serum across your face and get instant plumpness. When used wrong, it can backfire and do the complete opposite. The rule is very simple but nonetheless a game-changer: Always apply hyaluronic acid on damp skin! Plain and simple.
This molecule can draw water from the air or deep layers of the skin up to the surface, and it can just evaporate, leaving you with more dehydrated skin than before. However, when you start your routine with damp skin, water is already available for hyaluronic acid to bind. So, the next step is to lock in the moisture with a good moisturizer or facial oil.
When we say that beauty comes from within, we mean that nutrition is also crucial to decelerate the skin aging process and improve overall health. Especially when the quantity of hyaluronic acid in the skin gradually decreases due to aging. For example, a 75-year-old woman has only 25% of hyaluronic acid in her skin compared with when she was in her 20's.
Nowadays, oral supplements that are formulated for beauty purposes are considered "nutri-cosmetics." The need for these supplements comes from the somewhat transient effect of topical hyaluronic acid-based products.
Remember that even though this molecule is water-soluble, it comes in different sizes, and this impacts directly on its ability to be absorbed by the skin layer and to offer long-lasting benefits. Otherwise, it would remain atop, and most of its benefits would be squandered.
It is known that lower molecular weight hyaluronic acid taken orally has a greater bioavailability, which means that it is effectively absorbed through the gastrointestinal system. Then, this molecule finds its way to the skin cells, promoting both hyaluronic acid and collagen synthesis! A 2 x 1 benefit to help improve the appearance of wrinkles2.
Hyaluronic acid supplements were also created to ensure consistency and compliance from consumers. Additionally, although it takes time to see results, the benefits would not be limited to the skin. You could see improvement in other areas.
Studies have confirmed that hyaluronic acid is safe for humans, and when using 120- 200 mg/day, it was effective between 8-12 weeks, showing significant improvement in wrinkles and fine lines appearance2.
Also, it can be effective in the alleviation of knee osteoarthritis patients with mild pain symptoms, with effects as early as two weeks after the first administration3.
Collagen is considered the main structural protein in human tissue. It is involved in the functioning of most of our body systems, tissues, and organs. You can see it as the "glue" that keeps our cells together.
This important protein is responsible for the tightness, firmness, elasticity, and renewal of skin cells. Also, it is a major component of the cartilage, nails, joints, teeth, and bones.
Though it is constantly produced in the body, after the '30s, this process slows down and progressively weakens. So our body starts producing less and lower quality collagen.
Considering that collagen is not able to penetrate the topmost skin layer due to its big molecular size, our best chances of increasing its levels in the body are through oral supplements. Human consumption of dietary supplements like hydrolyzed collagen is considered safe.
Undoubtedly, it is essential to follow a protein-rich diet to provide your body with the amino acids necessary to produce collagen. But also, you can consume it in the form of collagen hydrolysate or fish scales collagen peptides. They are essentially collagen broken down into smaller, easy-to-process particles.
Hydrolyzed collagen (HC) is a protein that is easily absorbed. It is safe and highly demanded due to its biocompatibility and benefits on the skin, hair, and nail growth. Also, it has important antioxidant properties that prevent the damaging effects of free radicals4.
HC acts in two ways. First, the free amino acids contained in it provide building blocks for our body to ensemble collagen and elastin fibers4. Second, the collagen directly stimulates skin cells to produce new collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid!
There are plenty of studies providing evidence that oral ingestion of collagen hydrolysates exhibits excellent water-holding capacity, moisture absorption, and anti-aging properties, with an additional potential to diminish UV spots4.
A study with 120 subjects, where they consumed daily oral supplementation of HC for 90 days, resulted in an improvement of skin texture, wrinkling, and elasticity, with an additional protective effect on joint health4.
There is a new ingredient in the skincare world that is much like a hidden gem. Or should we say, a "magic mushroom" is about to become your new superhero.
Tremella fuciformis, also known as snow mushroom, is a white flower-like fungus that is the main ingredient of Snevia. For thousands of years, this mushroom has been used in Asian medicine and foods for its benefits in hydration, healing, and skin rejuvenation.
Snevia is a vegetable alternative to hyaluronic acid. It forms a transparent film that is able to draw water and lock in moisture, giving you a strengthened skin barrier.
However, unlike hyaluronic acid, the film does not break when subject to pH and temperature changes. Snevia takes care of that problem while delivering an effective moisturizing effect!
Tremella's hydration efficiency is due to its gelatinous structure combined with its long chains of sugars with water retaining properties. So, you could see Snevia as the new and improved hyaluronic acid. It has the ability to improve skin elasticity and smooth out fine lines and wrinkles5.
Tremella's particles are smaller in size, allowing them to penetrate the skin more easily up to the deeper layers. And it can hold up to 5 times more water than hyaluronic acid!
This mushroom also shows impressive skin healing abilities since it has a high content of vitamin D. It helps wound healing, stimulates cell growth, and maintains the skin barrier intact. Basically, it's your own skincare guardian angel.
Tremella has other benefits. It is considered an antioxidant, which means that it breaks down free radicals, protecting your skin from the effects of UV light that causes aging5. Even better, it can prevent fine lines and wrinkles from appearing in the first place!
Deep intensive hydration that lasts hours.
Youth-boosting properties.
A powerful antioxidant effect.
Collagen and hyaluronic acid are the major structural constituents of the skin. So it's only natural that we do everything in our hands to increase its quantity in whatever way possible. Whether by using creams, serums, or taking nutritional supplements.
By now, we think that it has become pretty clear that hyaluronic acid is not better than collagen or the other way around. They both are absolutely necessary when it comes to stopping the aging process. One gives structure, and the other hydration to give you supple, plumped-looking skin.
Also, following the new skincare trends where the goal is finding multitasking products that can do several things on the skin, Snevia makes its triumphal entry. This ingredient is a hydration power punch that can give you the benefits of collagen and hyaluronic acid in one ingredient!