For a few years now, consumers have been expressing environmental concerns as part of the global green movement. Also, they have higher expectations of product efficacy in terms of formulation and aesthetics.
So, more than just buying a product, consumers are now looking for a global experience where functionality, sustainability and a great sensory profile meet. And to fulfill this growing demand, products with bio-based and innovative ingredients are mandatory.
The answer? Bio-based lipid esters such as Pelemol® DISM, aka Diisostearyl Malate. This ingredient not only helps soften the skin, much like Hyaluronic Acid and other hydrating actives but will improve the feel and flow features of emulsions in cosmetic formulas.
Fatty esters are naturally-derived oleochemicals resulting from an acid reacting with alcohol. Acids are long chains of hydrocarbons that combine carbon and hydrogen atoms. And fatty alcohols are secondary to the hydrogenation of fatty acids from animal fats or plant oils.
Depending on the lipid structure, fatty chain length, and alcohol involved, the functionality and usage may vary, directly impacting emulsifying, solubilizing, surfactant, wetting, and foaming properties.
Common fatty acid esters are Decyl Oleate, Triethyl Citrate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Triolein, Isopropyl Palmitate (IPP), Isopropyl Myristate, and Diisostearyl Malate.
Esters are, first and foremost, excellent emollients and conditioning agents. They replenish the skin barrier and help treat dryness and irritation.
Certainly, emollients are functional ingredients that hydrate and help to smooth and soften the skin.
Thanks to their occlusive properties, they prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL) that causes dehydration. So, esters are key ingredients in moisturizers and create a protective film to entrap moisture.
When thinking of emollients, the first thing that comes to mind is thick, wax-like ingredients. But the best about esters is that they are lighter emollients than other market options. Also, they have excellent spreading and wetness.
Good spreading or slip is secondary to low surface tension, meaning they act as surfactants and diminish the interface between liquids, especially in oil-to-water emulsions. This feature prevents any drag, tack, or sticky sensation.
Also, esters are excellent solvents and emulsifiers that enable stable mixtures of oils and water-based ingredients, a coveted feature of skincare and cosmetic actives.
So, considering all these benefits, naturally-derived esters will dramatically improve personal care formulations' performance and aesthetics.
Pelemol® DISM is a liquid diester (Diisostearyl Malate) from the combination of Malic Acid and Isostearyl Alcohol.
Malic Acid is an organic compound of the alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) family, present in apples, grapes and cherries, whereas Isostearyl Alcohol is an 18-carbon chain alcohol derived from palm oil.
Diisostearyl Malate is a fatty ester that can be incorporated into different formulas, from eye contour creams to foundations and makeup. This ingredient exhibits excellent emolliency and cushion, leaving your skin baby soft and supple.
And even though Diisostearyl Malate finds many applications in the cosmetic world, it is notoriously famous for its use in lipsticks. And, when it comes to high-end and effective lip care, it doesn't get any better than a lip product containing Pelemol® DISM!
With Pelemol® DISM, you get the main benefits of esters, paired with top-notch spread, glossing properties and a luxurious application.
Pelemol® DISM is the perfect marriage between functionality and great texture.
Spreadability is a synonym for a great sensory experience. And these days, sensory profiles of products can be a real deal breaker and influence buyers' final decisions.
After all, performance is nothing when it doesn't go hand in hand with great aesthetics.
Indeed, first impressions matter. From the moment the product touches your skin or lips, your brain is fed with sensory information.
Just like the smell of lavender or freshly cut grass can put you in a great mood, the silkiness of a product can evoke pleasant memories and feelings.
Diisostearyl Malate is a rheology modifier (thickener) or a texture enhancer. It can give formulas better consistency or richness paired with a soft silkiness that is also fast-absorbing with no oil residues.
When you apply a cream to your skin, you notice how well it absorbs and how much of it sits atop the surface. This is called the 'rubbed out' phase.
Due to the chemical structure of Pelemol® DISM, you can have a richer and more lingering after-feel useful for night creams and lip masks.
Indeed, if used correctly, texture can work in your favor, building great expectations that can further boost an already good product.
And even though we already know about the countless applications and features of Diisostearyl Malate, and this ingredient certainly walks the talk, a great texture doesn't hurt.
Nowadays, the personal care industry is facing an eco-friendly and educated audience.
Sustainable and responsible sourcing is a must and not an option, both for the sake of the planet and to meet the new customers' demands.
Silicone oils, such as Dimethicone, are of mineral origin and go against the increasingly green consciousness of newer skincare enthusiasts. So, Pelemol® DISM, even if not entirely bio-based, comes from a plant origin.
Indeed, Diisostearyl Malate- an all esters, for that matter- can reduce the manufacturing process's environmental footprint by using chemical processes and transformations that are less energy-consuming than synthetic compounds.
Also, it is biodegradable and poses less of a threat to the environment.
Additionally, according to the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Board, petroleum-based ingredients and synthetic chemicals may be toxic, whereas Diisostearyl Malate is dermatologically safe for human use.
Pelemol® DISM combines functionality, sustainability and great texture.
So, is it good for lipsticks? Yes, Pelemol® DISM can give you unparalleled gloss, sheen and lubricity paired with minimum oiliness! But it is also an excellent additive in any skincare product, from creams to lotions and sunscreens.