"Peptides Vs. Retinol" is not a hot topic in skincare blogs. Retinol you have heard of, for sure. But peptides can be unknown territory for even the most enthusiastic skincare addicts. However, they have the real potential to become a powerful anti-aging multitasker that we will be raving about before long.
In the ongoing quest for the perfect anti-aging ingredient, consumers often find themselves bombarded with numerous products promising flawless complexion and wrinkle-free results.
Retinol, undoubtedly the most popular anti-aging ingredient of all time, is highly efficient. However, it requires wise usage to avoid the occurrence of flakiness and dry skin. But rest assured, there are new options on the horizon for those who prefer a gentler approach. The skincare industry is now exploring new generation products that are derived from natural sources and contain bioactive peptides, which offer multiple benefits for the skin.
Let's Talk About Retinol
As we get older, we start to notice fine lines and wrinkles. They appear because there is a reduction in the content of collagen and elastin in our skin. Moreover, exposure to sunlight (UV light) and free radicals speeds up the aging process.
Considered "The Fountain of Youth" by many dermatologists, retinol is one specific type of retinoid, the most popular over-the-counter one. It is a vitamin A derivative that works by accelerating cell turnover.
Through the process of replacing dead skin cells with new ones, retinol effectively eliminates dullness and unveils a more radiant complexion. This mechanism also enhances the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, diminishes dark spots, and promotes overall skin firmness and elasticity.
However, in order for retinol to effectively work its magic, it needs to undergo a conversion process. Our skin cells can only utilize the active or 'bioavailable' form of vitamin A, which is known as retinoic acid. Therefore, retinol must be transformed into retinoic acid by the enzymes present in our skin before it can truly deliver its benefits.
In addition to these "conversion complexities," retinol usage can be somewhat challenging. It is advisable to guide customers to adopt a gentle approach in order to prevent any potential side effects such as irritation, flakiness, redness, or swelling caused by this ingredient.
Peptides: The New Generation in Skincare
In recent years, consumers' demand for products with protective functions derived from natural sources paved the way for the skincare industry to search for alternative active ingredients like bioactive peptides.
These compounds have a wide spectrum of bioactivities, including antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory activities. Also, they display anti-aging-related effects because they prevent or diminish the degradation of collagen and elastin.
Overall, studies suggest that bioactive peptides could play an important role in skin protection, even though the mechanisms underlying the protective effect have not been completely elucidated.
Peptides and Sugars from Nicotiana Sylvestris
A study using culture cells of Nicotiana Sylvestris was able to prove peptides are effective against oxidative stress caused by free radicals. These compounds are even able to influence DNA down to very specific protecting and repairing genes. This is skincare at a molecular level as it has never been researched before.
Also, biopeptides were proven to increase collagen synthesis (pro-collagen type I and type III) and inhibit its degradation. So they could be seen as "biostimulators." Additionally, the sugars present in the mixture can potentiate the peptide's anti-aging properties, with extra hydration and anti-inflammatory effects on their own.
A Concentrated Water-Soluble Fraction From Tomato Cell Cultures
The skin is exposed to free radicals, including heavy metal stress. Moreover, heavy metals can induce collagen degradation, leading to the weakening of the skin and loss of elasticity. Plants have evolved and count with sophisticated mechanisms to protect their cells from heavy metal toxicity, including special compounds called phytochelatins (PC). These molecules capture the metals and prevent damage to the cellular structures.
With this in mind, there is a new cosmetic active ingredient from Lycopersicon esculentum (tomato) cultured stem cells under intense research. Besides its high content of antioxidant compounds, this product contains PC, which helps to protect human skin cells from heavy metal toxicity.
Studies have proved that this new product contributes to DNA protection and repair. Also, it helps to shield the skin from extrinsic skin aging and induces the synthesis of new collagen.
The Challenge with Peptides
Peptides sound like promising skincare ingredients but have some limitations. For instance, topical products like creams, gels, or lotions, must ensure the stability of the peptides during product formulation, paying attention to pH and temperature to ensure sustained bioactivity in the final product.
Also, the delivery into the skin is crucial. Selecting bioactive peptides with low molecular weight is a must because big molecules (high molecular weight peptides) cannot penetrate the skin optimally. In addition, some bioactive peptides have a hydrophobic character (don't go well with water) and exhibit poor solubility. Hence, even though peptides have great potential, there is plenty of research to be done.
Peptides Vs. Retinol? Better Peptides Plus Retinol
The significance of bioactive peptides has often been overlooked, but scientific evidence supports their potential application, which is slowly gaining recognition. While we wouldn't go so far as to claim that peptides should replace retinol entirely, it's clear that both have their own unique benefits. Although progress has been made in peptide applications, there is still work to be done in terms of execution.
Ultimately, the choice between retinol and peptides is not about favoring one over the other. It's about keeping your options open, especially if you want to stay up to date with the latest skincare trends.
