IN TODAY'S PERSONAL CARE INDUSTRY, CONSUMERS AND FORMULATORS ALIKE ARE SEEKING PRODUCTS THAT DELIVER PERFORMANCE AND SUSTAINABILITY SUCH AS BIOESTOLIDES™, A BIOBASED EMOLLIENT DERIVED FROM RENEWABLE SOURCES LIKE CASTOR OIL. BIOSYNTHETIC TECHNOLOGIES, THE COMPANY BEHIND BIOESTOLIDES™, HAS DEVELOPED A UNIQUE SOLUTION THAT MEETS THE GROWING DEMAND FOR ECO-FRIENDLY, EFFECTIVE SKINCARE INGREDIENTS.

BioEstolides™ offer a wide range of benefits that make them stand out. These 100% biobased emollients provide superior hydration, skin elasticity, and a luxurious sensory profile. A key advantage of BioEstolides™ is their oxidative, hydrolytic, and UV stability, which ensures long-lasting effectiveness in various formulations. Whether it is a moisturizer, sunscreen, or haircare product, BioEstolides™ help maintain product integrity and boost the overall sensory experience, without leaving a greasy residue.

Exploring BioEstolides™ Chemical Structure 

BioEstolides™ represents a modern approach to skincare, rooted in both sustainability and scientific innovation. These biobased emollients derive their properties from Acetyl Octyl Polyhydroxyoleate, a compound obtained from castor oil, making them an environmentally friendly option for formulators aiming to balance efficacy with eco-consciousness. Understanding the structure of BioEstolides™ provides valuable insight into why they perform so effectively across different formulations.

• Derived from castor oil: BioEstolides™ are synthesized from ricinoleic acid, the primary fatty acid in castor oil. Chemically, ricinoleic acid is an unsaturated omega-9 fatty acid with the formula C18H34O3. It contains a hydroxyl group (–OH) attached to the 12th carbon atom in the chain, giving it both hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties. This structure is represented as: CH₃(CH₂)₅CH(OH)CH₂CH=CH(CH₂)₇COOH

  The hydroxyl group at the 12th carbon allows for unique reactivity during esterification, making it ideal for the creation of BioEstolides™. Castor oil’s renewable nature further ensures a sustainable raw material supply.

• Esterification process: BioEstolides™ are produced through polyhydroxyoleate esterification, where ricinoleic acid molecules are linked via ester bonds. This process reduces the number of unsaturated bonds, making the resulting estolides highly resistant to oxidation and hydrolysis. By forming polyesters, the molecular weight and viscosity of BioEstolides™ are improved, which contributes to their stability in a wide range of conditions, from high temperatures during production to long-term storage.

• Enhanced stability: The complex esterified structure of BioEstolides™ offers superior oxidative, hydrolytic, and UV stability. The reduction of reactive double bonds and the saturation of carbon chains prevent the breakdown of BioEstolides™ in oxidative environments. This makes them particularly effective in formulations that require long-term stability, such as sunscreens and day creams exposed to UV light. Their hydrolytic stability also ensures that they remain effective in water-rich environments, preventing degradation in moisturizers or other hydration-focused products.

• Moisture retention: Due to the presence of multiple hydroxyl groups in the estolide structure, BioEstolides™ exhibit strong humectant properties. These hydroxyl groups attract and bind water molecules, which improves hydration retention on the skin. Unlike other emollients, BioEstolides™ provide deep moisturization without leaving an oily film. This feature is essential in skincare products designed for long-lasting hydration, especially those targeting dry or sensitive skin types.

The synthesis of BioEstolides™ through the esterification of ricinoleic acid improves both the stability and performance of the resulting oils. Their long-chain fatty acids and hydroxyl groups give them excellent spreadability, moisture retention, and resilience against environmental factors like heat and UV exposure.

Historically, estolides were first identified in the early 20th century, when scientists sought natural alternatives to synthetic oils. By optimizing the esterification process, Biosynthetic Technologies has reduced the environmental impact while increasing the chemical resilience of BioEstolides™, making them a top choice for eco-conscious beauty brands.

Applications of BioEstolides™ in Personal Care

As the personal care industry continues to prioritize sustainability, BioEstolides™ has proven to be an effective solution for eco-conscious formulations. Their molecular composition, sourced from castor oil, allows for versatility across skincare, haircare, and cosmetics. 

Hydration in skincare: BioEstolides™ offer efficient moisture retention by forming a breathable barrier on the skin, which reduces water loss. Their hydrophilic components attract moisture, making them ideal for creams, lotions, and other hydration-based products. The smooth, lightweight texture they provide boosts the sensory experience, ensuring that these products feel luxurious without leaving a greasy residue.

• Sun protection: The UV stability of BioEstolides™ increases sunscreen formulations by helping to stabilize active ingredients like oxybenzone and zinc oxide. This stabilization ensures that UV-blocking agents remain effective, even under prolonged sun exposure. BioEstolides™ also help in the even dispersion of physical sunscreens, improving coverage and protection.

• Haircare benefits: BioEstolides™ improve the moisture retention and manageability of hair. Their light, non-greasy nature makes them ideal for products designed to reduce frizz and enhance shine without adding weight. They also protect against heat damage, making them a strong choice for use in leave-in conditioners and thermal protectants.

• Cosmetics stability: In color cosmetics, BioEstolides™ are highly valued for their ability to disperse pigments equally. This results in smoother application and more uniform color in products like foundations and lipsticks. The emulsifying properties of BioEstolides™ also prevent product separation, contributing to the overall stability and shelf life of makeup formulations.

• Solid personal care products: BioEstolides™ help ensure the structural integrity of solid formulations such as lip balms and deodorants. Their thermal stability allows these products to maintain their form without softening, even at higher temperatures. The smooth, non-tacky finish they provide adds to the appeal of these products, improving their wearability and consumer satisfaction.

In addition to these categories, BioEstolides™ contribute to:

• Facial serums: Their lightweight properties make them an ideal carrier for active ingredients like niacinamide and peptides, improving the penetration and effectiveness of these treatments.

• Sprayable formulations: BioEstolides™ improve the solubility and distribution of active ingredients in spray-based products, offering a seamless application with a non-greasy finish.

As the need for sustainable ingredients grows, BioEstolides™ offers a reliable option for formulators seeking to balance performance with environmental responsibility.

Optimizing Formulations: BioEstolides™ Synergies 

The ability to create synergies between ingredients is a must for increasing product performance. BioEstolides™ offer compatibility properties with a variety of compounds, amplifying their effects while maintaining the integrity of the formulation. These synergies allow chemists to design advanced products that deliver superior results in skincare and hair care.

• Squalane: BioEstolides™ pair effectively with squalane, a popular emollient known for its lightweight, non-greasy finish. Together, they improve skin’s moisture retention and barrier function, resulting in a smoother, more hydrated complexion. The combination also boosts product spreadability in creams or serums.

• Panthenol (Pro-vitamin B5): When used with panthenol, BioEstolides™ help improve the hair’s elasticity and moisture retention. This pairing works particularly well in leave-in conditioners and hair treatments, as panthenol adds strength while BioEstolides™ seal in moisture, providing a lasting, protective layer on the hair shaft.

• Ceramides: BioEstolides™ complement the barrier-strengthening properties of ceramides, helping to lock in moisture and fortify the skin’s defenses. This pairing is particularly effective in skincare products designed to repair dry or compromised skin.

• Glycerin: Known for its humectant abilities, glycerin attracts water to the skin. When combined with BioEstolides™, this blend creates a powerful hydration system that not only draws moisture into the skin but also retains it for long-lasting hydration.

• Vitamin E (Tocopherol): In formulations requiring antioxidant protection, BioEstolides™ stabilize vitamin E, improving its efficacy in protecting the skin against free radicals. This pairing works well in anti-aging and sunscreen products where defense against oxidative damage is crucial.

• Peptides: In anti-aging skincare, peptides are known for stimulating collagen production. BioEstolides™ help deliver peptides more effectively, ensuring smoother application and better moisture retention, thus improving the overall results in terms of skin elasticity and firmness.

• Cetyl Alcohol: In creams, BioEstolides™ synergize with cetyl alcohol to create formulations with a rich texture that is easy to apply, providing deep hydration without the greasy feel. This combination is ideal for body butters that require a thicker consistency while maintaining a smooth application.

By using BioEstolides™ in synergy with these ingredients, formulators can create products that offer improved performance without sacrificing stability. The multifunctional properties of BioEstolides™—such as their ability to enhance spreadability, moisture retention, and oxidative stability—make them an ideal partner in various formulations.

In addition to these key pairings, BioEstolides™ also complement:

• Retinol: Stabilizing this potent anti-aging ingredient, BioEstolides™ ensures that retinol remains effective over time while reducing the irritation that can sometimes be associated with its use.

• Niacinamide: The combination of niacinamide and BioEstolides™ helps to brighten the skin while maintaining its moisture balance, making it an effective duo in anti-aging and brightening serums.

By optimizing these combinations, BioEstolides™ opens up new possibilities for formulators to innovate and create high-performance, sustainable beauty products.

Takeaway

BioEstolides™ chemical structure, derived from castor oil, not only supports long-lasting hydration and stability but also offers formulators the flexibility to design products with a wide range of textures and functions. From their effective use in skincare and haircare products to their synergy with ingredients like hyaluronic acid, squalane, and peptides, BioEstolides™ bring significant value to modern formulations.

Their ability to stabilize formulations, improve moisture retention, and offer UV protection makes them indispensable in crafting high-performance personal care products. Additionally, the environmental benefits of BioEstolides™, such as their 100% natural origin and negative carbon footprint, align with the growing consumer demand for clean beauty solutions. As formulators explore new ways to innovate, BioEstolides™ offers a compelling option for creating products that deliver both performance and sustainability.