Emollients in cosmetics are not very well-known or heavily advertised, even though they are essential ingredients in skincare products. They are little miracle workers that help soften your skin and lock in moisture! Not bad at all. 

Common emollients include shea butter, cocoa butter, lanolin, mineral oil, petrolatum, squalene, and fatty acids (animal oils, including lanolin).

Emollients are present in lotions, creams, ointments, and oils. And even though many take them for granted, don’t know they exist, or maybe don’t even know how to use them, we are here to give you the 101 on this ingredient.

And the best of all is that we are here to tell you all about a great emollient that can be and humectant too. Indeed, Jeechem IPP is here to become your best ally in having hydrated and plumping skin.

What Are Emollients?

The term emollient comes from the Latin verb emollire, which means “to soften or soothe.” So, emollients are ingredients that improve the feel of your skin, make it soft, and keep it hydrated. Most well-known emollients in cosmetics come from natural sources, plant or animal-based. You must be familiar with beeswax, coconut oil, shea and cocoa butter, squalene, jojoba, almond, and olive oil (cold-pressed).

These products contain triglycerides which are fatty acids linked to glycerin. Examples of fatty acids are linoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, and lauric acid. Depending on the number of carbon and hydrogen atoms of the fatty acids, there are different triglycerides, each with differences in the oily feel, melting point, compatibility issues, and skin penetration.

How Do Emollients Work?

Emollients are easy-to-spread products. They fall under the category of moisturizers, and though they do not provide water per se, they help lock in moisture, preventing the skin from drying out.

Our skin has a protective barrier made up of cells and natural lipids. It is designed to retain moisture and keep irritants out. When this barrier is compromised, open spaces appear between the cells, and your skin becomes dehydrated, flaky and even itchy. So, where do emollients fit in? 

Emollients cover the outermost layer of the skin, nourishing and strengthening your natural lipid barrier. They fill the spaces between the cells, soothing and softening your skin. They also decrease inflammation.

Since they rebuild and repair your natural skin barrier, emollients are excellent products to include in skincare routines for patients with conditions such as psoriasis, eczema, and dermatitis. 

Also, most emollients act as occlusives too. The oil-to-water ratio or the amount of oil in them dictates their effectiveness as an occlusive agent. Occlusives form a protective film over your skin. Think of it as an impermeable blanket that prevents skin´s transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and allows trapping water and any water-based skincare products you may apply underneath it. 

Hence, occlusives are ideal for winter, very dry skin and patients with eczema! Overall, emollients are pretty noble skincare ingredients. They work well on most skin types without causing irritation or important side effects. However, for those with oily or acne-prone skin, beware. Thicker emollients, and heavy, oily products, could cause clogged pores, inflamed hair follicles, or breakouts when using them.

The Most Popular Emollients Used in The Cosmetic Industry

Shea and Cocoa Butter

Both are vegan and rich in fatty acids, such as palmitic acid, linoleic acid, stearic acid, and oleic acid. They are an excellent source of lipids to repair the skin barrier! They also contain antioxidants, such as vitamins A and E.

Lanolin

Lanolin is derived from sheep’s wool. But don’t worry, it is obtained from sheared wool in a completely cruelty-free process. It closely resembles our own skin’s oils. In fact, lanolin`s waxy texture is just like the sebum in our scalps, making it one of the safest skincare ingredients to use.

Lanolin is excellent for eczema and psoriasis. It is hydrating but breathable, unlike Vaseline, which covers the skin forming a physical barrier.

Mineral Oil

Contrary to popular belief, mineral oil comes from the ground. It is extracted from petroleum under energy-intensive conditions of high pressure and temperatures. Mineral oil is both emollient and occlusive. It is an excellent addition to your skincare routine, as long as you don’t have oily or acne-prone skin since it can clog pores.

Petroleum

Petroleum jelly is the main ingredient in Vaseline. It is an ointment with a waxy texture that works perfectly as an occlusive. Indeed, Vaseline has become very popular lately as part of a new skincare trend called “slugging”. When doing so, you must apply Vaseline as the last step in your night beauty routine. This waterproof seal helps keep moisture in as your dry skin repairs itself.

Synthetic Emollients in Cosmetics: Solving Formulation Issues!

Natural emollients are great for dry skin but can have an overly greasy feel or oily texture, posing formulation challenges. Hence, synthetic emollients were created. Among synthetic emollients, we have silicones (dimethicone, cyclomethicone) and emollient esters. The latter results from reacting an alcohol with a fatty acid.

One of the best-known simple esters is isopropyl myristate, resulting from a reaction with isopropyl alcohol and myristic acid. More complex esters are called polyhydric alcohols, such as ethylene glycol monostearate (EGMS). This compound is used in many skincare products as a thickener and to produce a pearling effect. 

Emollient + Humectant: Jeechem IPP Is a Multitasking Ingredient

Jeechem IPP, aka isopropyl palmitate (isopropyl alcohol + palmitic acid), is an oily, colorless, liquid emollient ester that will keep your skin nice and smooth. Jeechem IPP greatly improves the performance of skincare products while giving a soft, silky touch. This ingredient is an excellent stabilizer and solvent. Also, it has very good spreading properties.

Although emollients don’t provide additional moisture (they are meant to lock it in), Jeechem IPP combines the best of both worlds. It is an emollient but also a humectant capable of binding water and hydrating your skin!

So, now you know. Jeechem IPP is the next generation of multifunctional emollients and moisturizers! When it comes to emollients, this product is your best option to provide hydration, retain moisture, and repair the natural skin barrier.