There might not be much buzz about Mandelic acid. Indeed, when it comes to skincare, hyaluronic acid, retinol, and glycolic acid might be the popular kids of the block. However, Mandelic acid is not an underdog at all!
Mandelic acid is a powerful but gentle skincare ingredient. It is a multitasker in itself. Also, it is a good chemical exfoliant, and while doing its job, it doesn’t irritate the skin. Sounds great, right?
Mandelic acid is an AHA, meaning an alpha hydroxy acid derived from bitter almonds.
This natural acid works as a chemical exfoliator which increases the cell turnover on the skin surface. In that way, we shed old cells to reveal a smooth and brighter complexion.
What sets mandelic acid apart from other AHAs, though, is the size of its molecules. Since mandelic acid is the biggest of them all (it’s twice as big as glycolic acid), it can't penetrate as deeply. However, it penetrates the skin slowly but surely, lessening the chances for skin irritation1.
For that reason, mandelic acid is the go-to choice in case of sensitive/irritable skin!
As with other AHAs, Mandelic acid is known for its anti-aging properties. It stimulates the production of collagen and elastin, which helps diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Also, it helps to firm up the skin and improve its elasticity.
Actually, ancient Egyptians first used a form of mandelic acid to improve the aging effects on facial skin 3,600 years ago!1 And if one thing is for sure, looking young and beautiful will never go out of style.
Additionally, mandelic acid has a reputation for being perfect for oily/acne-prone skin for two reasons. The first is that this AHA has important antibacterial properties that allow killing the bacteria that causes acne in the first place.
Secondly, it unclogs pores and regulates sebum production. If you combine these properties with its gentle activity, you have the perfect AHA for acne-prone skin, considering that these skin types are very sensitive.
Indeed, both mandelic acid (AHA) and salicylic acid (BHA) have shown a significant reduction in the acne score in multiple studies2. However, one study found that mandelic acid can be as effective as salicylic acid, with less irritation and a better safety/tolerability profile3.
Also, mandelic acid is known for reducing inflammation. This translates into fewer acne breakouts, including inflammatory acne-like papules and pustules.
Last but not least, mandelic acid is excellent for brightening the complexion and fading hyperpigmentation. It can effectively reduce dark spots and has shown a great activity clearing post-acne marks in patients resistant to other conventional modalities4.
When using any chemical exfoliator, you should take it slowly, even with mandelic acid, which is the gentler of all AHAs.
Start by using it once a week and build tolerance. Then you could use it 3-4 times a week, always applying a good moisturizer on top to avoid any irritation or flakiness.
Of course, AHAs also has hydrating properties, but hydration is key, especially when exfoliating. Also, remember ALWAYS to wear appropriate sun protection during the day. AHAs are known for increasing skin sensitivity during the daytime.
Also, before introducing mandelic acid to your skincare routine, you can get the help of a dermatologist. They can give you proper guidance, based on your individual needs, including what specific products to use.
Isopropyl palmitate is an oily liquid derived from isopropyl alcohol + palmitic acid. It is considered an emollient, acting as a texture enhancer and allowing the products to spread smoothly.
On top of giving a silky touch to skincare products and leaving your skin soft and smooth, isopropyl palmitate acts as a moisturizer. This helps to draw water to the skin's surface, making it look supple and hydrated.
So, being a good moisturizer means that it can pair very well with formulations with mandelic acid. The isopropyl palmitate can act as a shield against possible irritation. Right?
Yes, these ingredients can be mixed, even though there has been some buzz about isopropyl palmitate being bad for oily skin because it can be comedogenic.
Side note: these ratings can be misleading and tend to be overemphasized in the wrong hands. After all, they usually refer to the product in its pure/concentrated form, not diluted, which is how they present in skincare products.
Even considering the comedogenic rating, mandelic acid can be highly useful in this scenario because it is known to unclog pores. So the mandelic will neutralize any possible bad effects from isopropyl palmitate.
You get the best of both products all wrapped in one! Each one brings the best out of each other.
Skincare can be very fun, but it also has to be done with proper knowledge. First, you need to understand how every active works. Also, you must find out if they are right for YOU. Or, more specifically, right for your skin type.
Even though it is not rocket science, we are here to make things easier for you. When it comes to exfoliating (a daunting step of the skincare routine for most), you can't go wrong with mandelic acid.
It is gentle enough yet effective. Also, it suits all skin types, including sensitive skin!
And, if you pair it with a moisturizing ingredient like isopropyl palmitate, you get an extra hydration boost to diminish any possible irritation.