Skin is often underestimated in its complexity and resilience. Beyond serving as a canvas for makeup and a barrier against pollution and sunlight, the skin is a dynamic ecosystem where cells, bacteria, and fungi coexist in a delicate balance. For professional formulators, maintaining this equilibrium is crucial for developing effective skincare products.
Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, commercially known as Bioecolia®, is a prebiotic compound designed to support the skin's microbiome. Similar to how probiotics in yogurt promote digestive health, Bioecolia® enhances the skin's natural defenses and overall health.
Our skin is the largest organ of our bodies and a rich ecosystem. Even when it is not apparent to the naked eye, the skin is a complex interconnected system with two main components:
Stratum corneum: this component is the uppermost layer of the epidermis. It consists of dead cells filled with keratin, a highly resistant protein. This layer functions like a robust wall of bricks, preventing external substances from invading the skin tissue and minimizing dehydration or water loss. As a physical barrier, the stratum corneum protects the skin from external aggressors such as UV light, pollution, and the various products applied to the skin, including makeup.
Ecoflora: also known as the skin's microbial flora, acts as a microbiological defense barrier. It prevents the proliferation of pathogenic bacteria and fungi. This ecosystem successfully renews the top layer of the stratum corneum constantly, with the ecoflora representing the living part of the skin's defense system.
The term skin microbiome refers to the wide variety of bacteria, fungi, and parasites that live on and colonize the skin. Most of these microorganisms are harmless or beneficial, living in a delicate balance that directly impacts skin health.
The concentration and type of microorganisms vary by individual and body location. Each area of the human body has its unique microbial map.
The beneficial resident flora in each skin region performs several crucial functions to maintain skin balance:
Preventing the growth of harmful microorganisms
Involvement in skin metabolism
Boosting the immune system
The skin flora includes bacteria, fungi, and viruses. Among these microorganisms, some are more beneficial than others. Similar to the intestines, there is a delicate balance between harmful and helpful microorganisms. The resident ecoflora prevents the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms by creating an environment that is hostile to avoid the proliferation of those microbes.
The ecoflora acts as the skin’s first line of ecological defense through various mechanisms, such as nutritional competition and secreting protective substances that can eliminate harmful bacteria. This balance between beneficial and non-beneficial flora maintains homeostasis in the skin, keeping it healthy and free of infections.
However, sometimes the barrier between ecoflora and harmful microorganisms can blur. A bacteria known as a pathogen in small quantities usually does not cause any side effects, it is just when there is an imbalance that its sudden growth can lead to skin disorders.
When the skin is affected by pollution, stress, and poor diet, its ecosystem becomes fragile. External aggressors alter the epidermis by removing lipids, weakening it, and indirectly destabilizing the ecoflora by changing the surrounding conditions.
A compromised skin barrier results in small cracks or “breaks,” allowing harmful bacteria to invade or irritant substances to penetrate. Excessive hygiene with acidic or alkaline soaps can also trigger changes. While they are generally gentle, applying them to large skin areas can alter the skin’s surface conditions and disrupt the ecoflora balance.
These terms have gained popularity, particularly in relation to digestive health. Similar to how yogurt benefits our colon by introducing beneficial bacteria (lactobacilli), probiotics and prebiotics also play crucial roles in skincare.
Probiotics: These are live microorganisms that are beneficial to health when applied topically or ingested. They help maintain the balance of the skin's microbiome and improve skin conditions.
Prebiotics: These are food sources that sustain probiotics, acting like fertilizers to promote the growth of beneficial microorganisms. They are not living bacteria but provide essential nourishment for them.
Key Benefits of Probiotics:
Helps maintain the balance of the skin's microbiome.
Improve skin conditions such as acne and eczema.
Strengthen the skin's natural defenses against pathogens.
Key Benefits of Prebiotics:
Support the growth and activity of beneficial skin bacteria.
Help protect the skin by maintaining a healthy barrier.
Counteract external factors that cause dryness, redness, and early aging signs.
Improve skin conditions like acne and psoriasis by favoring beneficial ecoflora.
Prebiotics ensure that probiotics flourish, promoting a balanced and healthy skin environment. Understanding the distinct roles of these two elements is crucial for developing effective skincare formulations.
Bioecolia® comes in the form of an odorless white powder. It is a stable material that does not present any particular challenges when it is used in formulations. Bioecolia® could be considered a fundamental ingredient that can be adapted to all cosmetic formulation types, including skincare products, to protect the skin's integrity. The recommended concentration of Bioecolia® is between 0.25% and 3%, depending on the nature of the formulation (serum, cream, gel, etc.).
Additionally, Bioecolia® can be combined with other active ingredients to restore the balance of beneficial microbial populations, boosting the effects of each component.
Potential applications of Bioecolia® in skincare products include:
Make-up removers: Bioecolia® optimizes the reimplantation of the ecoflora after make-up removal or cleansing.
Anti-aging products: Bioecolia® strengthens the skin barrier, which becomes weaker with age.
Moisturizing creams: Bioecolia® protects the delicate ecosystem of facial skin against aggressive external factors such as pollution, UV rays, and pathogens.
Products for acne-prone skin: Bioecolia® is not metabolized by P. acnes, limiting its growth and the occurrence of breakouts.
Bioecolia® is an advanced ingredient in skincare formulations, offering significant benefits for maintaining and supporting skin health. It promotes beneficial microbial populations while inhibiting harmful ones, making it ideal for various skincare products such as make-up removers, anti-aging creams, moisturizers, and acne treatments.
For professional formulators, Bioecolia® provides an effective solution to create products that truly benefit skin health.